Well, here I am- back in the United States and not thrilled about it. I would have loved to have extended my trip, but it was my time to come back. Overall, my Aussie experience was wonderful and I definitely plan to go back. My favorite trips were Coolangatta on the Gold Coast, Bells Beach in Victoria, and the Great Barrier Reef.
I would love to move to either Coolangatta/Kirra Beach or Bells Beach on the surf coast/Great Ocean Road. In Coolangatta, I checked out some great surf beaches and caught a few waves myself. The beaches were so beautiful and there was definitely the laid back attitude that I adore. Some of the greatest surfers in the world grew up there, and it's close to Surfer's Paradise and Brisbane, where there's more action.
Bells Beach in Victoria was so beautiful it was unbelievable. For someone who really appreciates the ocean, as I do, it was heaven. Huge cliffs tumble into the ocean and it's less inhabited than the Gold Coast. The Great Ocean Road was the most magnificent drive I've ever done, and would definitely recommend it. Although the weather is less desirable, in general, compared to the Gold Coast, it was much quieter and even more laid back. It was more of a natural paradise, but close to Melbourne. Seeing the Rip Curl Pro was so thrilling and I met some great people, including Mick Fanning!
Finally, nothing compares to diving and snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef. It was my first diving experience, and the colors of the coral and fish were out of this world.
I think this experience definitely helped me grow alot and transition away from the grief and pain that I carried with me in February, when I started the trip. It also helped me realize that traveling alone is ok, and I can do more things on my own than I thought I could. It was a good confidence booster.
If I could do it over again, I'd definitely spend more time in each place and more time in Australia in general. It's such a huge place and it takes more time to see everything that you'd think. I'd definitely alot more time in New Zealand, as I'd like to see the South Island. I think that going with a tour to the northern island of New Zealand was the right option. I got to see most of the main attractions, however I would have liked to have seen more of the coast. Of course, you can't see everything in two months.
I'd travel back to Fiji again, but I'd make sure I wasn't going during their rainy season. While there we saw alot of rain, although we were able to enjoy the beach quite a bit. I'd like to see several of the other islands on the opposite side of the main land. We traveled around the Yasawa Islands, which were beautiful, but I think there's definitely more to see.
I'd also like to see the West Coast of Australia. There are so many places that I wanted to go to in Australia but didn't get to see. I think that doing just Australia, to see mostly everything, you need about a year.
A word of advice for backpackers, when you're searching out good deals, make sure you research the travel agencies before you book with them. While my experience was Travel Bugs was generally very good, my friend and I booked early trips with Wicked Travel and they weren't so great. Make sure you're not just getting a cheap trip, but something that's actually a good deal for the money.
Saturday, May 3, 2008
Back in the USA
Monday, April 28, 2008
Cape Tribulation
(Picture: Beach near Cape Tribulation)
Just outside of Cape Tribulation, we stopped at the Daintee River for a crocodile cruise. We spotted eight of the huge creatures, including one nesting. We then continued on a scenic ocean road to Cape Tribulation, where the rain forest spills onto the beach in spectacular fashion. One thing that you can't miss when going to Cape Tribulation is Daintree National Park. Here you'll find lush rain forests, large and teeming waterfalls, and several spots for swimming. You'll also likely spot some exotic birds.
If you can stay for more than a day, this is also a great place to check out the Great Barrier Reef, which is only 45 minutes off shore. There are fringe reefs closer in, and if you make your way to one of the many viewpoints, you can get great photos of the beach with the rain forest pouring onto it, with the reef just below the surface of the water.
Friday, April 25, 2008
Great Barrier Trip
I had never dived before and found the experience incredible. Chances are that there will be several other people on the boat who haven't dived before either, so don't be scared to give it a try. The guides explain everything and are really thorough.
While you can get closer to the coral while diving, there is just as much to see snorkeling. The water is shallow around the reef, and you can get up close to fish swimming by. The colors of the coral and the different things that you'll see on the reef will blow your mind. I saw a purple giant clam, which I was mesmerized by. I'd never seen anything like it in my life. It's like swimming at the most exotic aquarium you've ever been to.
The trip cost about $115, including lunch and all snorkeling and diving equipment, plus a huge buffet lunch. You'll spent all day out on the ocean. The trip leaves at about 9am and gets you back around 6pm.
I'm going on a day trip to Cape Tribulation tomorrow, then I'm flying back home to the United States to make some more money. For my next trip, I'm thinking about Western Australia and Indonesia.
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
No internet, yes fun
You have probably thought I had fallen off the face of the Earth by now. Although there are an abundance of internet in cities like Sydney, as I make my way up the East coast of Queensland, a wireless signal has been hard to come across. I've been styaing in some pretty remote areas. After leaving the Gold Coast and venturing past Fraser Island and Airley Beach, I made my way through Northern Queensland. All of my trip has been done by bus and I've stopped off in some small towns where the main attractions are a stinger infested beach and a short row of shops including the local butcher, a gas station, and maybe a cafe.
Northern Queensland is home to some crazy creatures, and the jellyfish or "stingers" are especially bad here during the summer months. Heading into fall, stinger nets are still in place the local beaches. Lifeguards keep watch over small areas of the beach roped off my stinger nets, and are prepared with vinegar in case there is a sting. These small creatures are apparently very painful and toxic.
I finally made my way to Cairns, which wasn't originally on my list of places to visit. I was told that you could see the Great Barrier Reef from the Whitsunday Islands. While you can get out to the main reef by taking a fast boat from Airlie Beach, I was advised that it's a much better idea to go to Cairns. I found that it is also cheaper to fly on JetStar or a comparable airline from Cairns to Sydney than to take a bus or train from Airlie Beach to Sydney.
Cairns is much smaller and quieter than I expected it to be. It's definitely a tourist town, with the main attraction being the Great Barrier Reef. There are tons of boats that will take you out there, and I found that it's best to book trips in advance, although you can book trips upon arrival with relative ease if you're flexible.
Cairns is a central hub that offers great backpacker accomodations at low prices, several travel agents to help travelers with planning their next destination, and is also close to many of Queensland's biggest attractions. Port Douglas, Cape Tribulation, Cape York, and Trinity Beach are all within a few hours. Single and multiple day trips run out of Cairns with relative frequency.
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Sail the Whitsunday Islands
When I was looking for key places to stop on my way up the East coast of Australia, several people recommended sailing on the Whitsunday Islands, a group of islands off the coast of Airlie Beach, a few hours north of Fraser Island. I booked my trip early on and the Whitsundays proved to be as beautiful as promised, however, if you’re planning to go, you might be best served not to book boats until you arrive at Airlie Beach.
If you’re flexible with the dates, you sail and can just book yourself a few nights in Airlie Beach, travel agents and sailing companies offer last minute standby deals on several boating options. They will also be better able to help you determine the best boats to fit your personal needs.
There are several different kinds of trips that you can take while in the Whitsunday Islands. The first is a day cruise. These usually leave early in the morning, are cheaper than the popular three day/two night cruises, and take you to key snorkeling spots, as well as Whitehaven Beach. They usually arrive back to port around 5pm, and while they don’t provide accommodation, you can often get in as much sailing time in one day as you would on a three day trip where you leave late on the first day and arrive back to port early on the third.
There is also then the popular three day two night cruises, which can run you up to three hundred dollars. Meals and accommodation are included on these trips, but make sure that you’re boarding a boat that will take you to the islands and reefs that you want to go to. The Whitsundays are on the Hardy Reef, a fringe reef off of the Great Barrier Reef, and it pays to do some research as to where you’ll be headed before you book.
Yet another option is to take out a fast boat for the day. These boats generally take trips to the Great Barrier Reef, if you have your heart set on snorkeling or diving on the real thing. While there’s plenty of good snorkeling to be had on the fringe reefs, these boats are also a good option if you’re willing to pay a bit more money to see more in a single day than you would on a regular ship.
If you want to abandon the idea of going out on a motor boat altogether, there are plenty of sailboats that will take you to excellent destinations. Many also offer you the option to learn how to sail while on board. This is certainly a unique opportunity, but make sure you’re going with a boat that you’re comfortable with.
One last thing to consider is that size does matter and that price is not always a good indication of what you’re getting. Just because you booked something on a deal doesn’t mean that you’re getting on board a bad boat. Likewise, you can spend a good deal of money and wind up on an over crowded boat that visits mediocre islands and spends little time at the actual reefs. There are also several companies that offer good deals, but cater to backpackers. If you’re not careful, you could wind up on a booze cruise with an inexperienced crew set on partying.
Monday, April 7, 2008
Day Tripping on the World's Largest Sand Island
After some convincing from people I’ve met along the day, I took a trip to Fraser Island. I originally planned on skipping what is considered to be one of the highlights of the coast in favor of heading straight for the Whitsunday Islands, but I decided to take a day trip. While most travel agencies sell backpackers on 3 day, 2 night Fraser Island self drive four wheel safaris, I flat out knew that driving around the world’s largest sand island in a four by four with an inexperienced driver, twelve strangers, and an old tent wasn’t exactly my style.
I found an inexpensive full day tour that fit my needs. Although I would have liked to have seen more of the northern end of the island, my guide on the Frasier Explorer bus was extremely knowledgeable. Myself and about ten others visited most of the island’s highlights, including the Maheno shipwreck, Lake McKenzie, Wanggoolba Creek, and Seventy Five Mile Beach.
Bouncing from side to side as we toppled large rocks on the beach, I gazed out the window of my four wheel drive bus as we cruised down Seventy Five Mile Beach, past the colored sands of the island. The pinnacles appeared to be gold, orange, and tan from the bus, but when we stopped for a look, it became clear that grains were a magnitude of colors ranging from red to brown with a mix of gold and orange.
In contrast, our next stop was the crystal clear Wanggoolba Creek. Wadding through the freshwater creek, I came across a lush rain forest and made by way back towards the ocean. It was just a short trip to the Maheno ship wreck, which washed ashore in a 1935 storm. The retired cruise ship is now a huge mass of deteriorating iron, but was a fascinating sight. Although you’re not allowed to climb inside it, you’re able to walk right up to it. It sits in the shore break of shark infested waters, so don’t go swimming, especially during breeding season.
To take a dip, I’d definitely recommend Lake McKenzie. It is actually crystal clear and you can see the bottom from anywhere in the lake. It’s filled with fresh water and refreshingly cool, and is a favorite spot for campers, backpackers, and dingoes. Tourists are not only urged not to feed 200 or so dingoes that roam the island, but will receive a $3000 fine if caught leaving food somewhere that a dingo could get to it. Signs are also posted in high frequency for parents to be mindful of the whereabouts of their children, as dingoes will give chase in you provoke them.
So cool in Coolangatta
Ah the Gold Coast. I’ve finally made it. Although I made it here about six weeks after I originally planned to, the sunny center of the Australia’s east coast was definitely worth the wait. While Surfer’s Paradise is the hot spot that most backpackers head to, I chose
a quiet a strip of surf towns renowned for their coveted breaks.
About an hour north of Byron Bay by bus, sits Coolangatta, Kirra Beach, and Tweeds Head. While there’s not a lot to do if you’re not a surfer, surf watcher, or beach bum, the sun shining on the crystal clear water and waves breaking at Snapper Rocks (where the first leg on the World Pro Surfing Tour, the Quicksilver/Roxy Pro is held every February) is enough to make almost anyone want to take a break, sit beneath a palm tree, and spend the day. If you’re up for it, the walk from Kirra Beach to Point Danger is long but worth the trip. Head in north by bus or foot and you’ll reach Burleigh Heads, where there are some awesome rock formations worth climbing up on. There's also awesome surfing here.
If you’re into the surfing or beach scene, start off by climbing Kirra Hill for amazing views of the ocean and the surrounding beaches. The main shopping areas in Kirra, Coolangatta, and Tweeds head consist of mostly surf shops, board rental stores, souvenir posts, and sandwich shops, but you can visit Mick Fanning’s Rip Curl store if you’re keen on it.
In the distance you can see the illustrious Surfer’s Paradise to the north, and you can travel there by bus or car in about half an hour if you’re up for more action. I chose to only make a short trip up to Surfer’s Paradise, as it’s very similar to Miami, but without the Cuban influence. True surfers stay clear of the beaches at Surfer’s Paradise, preferring the fine breaks of Coolangatta, but may head there for the bouncing nightlife. The beaches aren’t as nice in Surfer’s Paradise, but there’s more shopping and easy access to theme parks. Although I didn’t visit any of them because I’ve been to my fair share living in Florida, I’m told that they’re quite good.
Although I was only supposed to be in Coolangatta for a day, a broken down bus left me stranded in paradise. I’m lucky to have built three extra days into my travel schedule, and wasn’t too upset to have to spend another day lazing around, photographing the surfers, and playing in the water. I absolutely loved it.